To call our recent trip to Paris spontaneous is a bit of an understatement.
We had been in Sibenik, Croatia for three weeks, and while we loved the small coastal city, we were starting to feel the grass grow beneath our feet.
Travis and I were just one month in to our new full-time travel lifestyle, and as much as we hated to admit it, we were bored. We had done everything in the area multiple times, and we were on a first name basis with the waiters at the restaurant around the corner.
It was time to shake things up.
After some blanket “Europe” searches on Google Flights we narrowed it down to two cities where we could fly to that day: Paris and Berlin.
Torn at the prospect of both destinations, we turned the decision over to fate and flipped a coin.
Heads: Paris. Tails: Berlin.
We landed in Paris that night with no plans, no lodging and no expectations, and a week later we left with a newfound love and appreciation for the beautiful city.
While Paris is by no means an uncharted destination, here’s my take on the city of lights…
Where to Stay
This sounds obvious, but Paris is a huge city, and where you plant yourself is crucial to maximizing your time, money and energy. The city is divided into arrondissements, or districts, each with a different flavor and ambiance.
Paris by Arrondissements (Credit: Paris Discovery Guide)
There are a million and one hotels in the city, many that are quite pricey, so I would recommend utilizing Airbnb to stay in an apartment in a central location. New to Airbnb? Here’s $40 off your first stay!
Use the Cathedral of Notre Dame as your landmark, which is smack in the center of the city.
When most people visualize their stay in Paris, they picture staying right by the Eiffel Tower.
In actuality, it’s a few miles from most other attractions in the city, and the neighborhood is commercialized and filled with tourists. Same goes for the Louvre, so my recommendation is to stay in one of the following areas:
Le Marais
Located just across the river from Notre Dame in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, Le Marais has the chic local vibe that you’ve been dreaming about. Stay here for some of the city’s best dining, shopping and street wandering.
The streets of Le Marais / the Cathedral of Notre Dame / A houseboat on the Seine near Notre Dame.
The Latin Quartier
You’ll find fantastic lodging options here in the Latin Quartier, situated southeast of Notre Dame in the 5th arrondissement. The architecture is quintessentially Parisian and the streets are lined with quaint cafes and shops.
Saint-Germaine is another happening neighborhood located adjacent to the Latin Quarter and is home to one of the city’s best restaurants and bar scene.
6th Arrondissement
This centrally located district is home to the Jardin du Luxembourg, and is known both historically and today for it’s cafe culture, restaurants and art galleries.
How to get around
The Metro
Paris has an amazing metro system, and with good reason — they invented the world’s first subway system in 1898 to prepare for the World’s Fair.
Take advantage of the Metro and pick up a card for your whole visit. Don’t worry, you’ll still get your steps in! GoogleMaps is also very in-tune with the metro and will articulate your train route with pretty good accuracy.
Uber
Fortunately Paris is one of the European cities that still has Uber, and cars are readily available.
What to do
Take a bike tour
The best way to see the city is by bike — take a bike tour on your first day in the city to get your bearings, catch up on your French history and see the major sights.
We liked it so much that we did two bike tours on our visit, and our favorite company by far was Bike About Tours.
Biking through the grounds of the Louvre
The owner is also a Florida native who has lived in Paris for 15 years, and they offer tours of the city as well as to Versailles and Champagne.
Our tour with their guide Tom was a major highlight of our trip! They also have a cute coffee shop in Le Marais, Le Peloton, where you can rent a bike a la carte.
Have a Picnic at the Eiffel Tower
For the best views of the Eiffel Tower, pack a picnic and head to Champs de Mars Park.
Gather the five ingredients you need for a true French picnic: bread, cheese, meat, wine and fruit, and enjoy. No time to grab food beforehand? Grab a crepe and some wine at the stand by the carousel.
The Pont Alexandre III Bridge / A delicious crepe on the Champs de Mars.
A deceiving thing about the Eiffel Tower is how far away you actually need to be for your photo to turn out… I’m talking one where either you, or the top of the tower isn’t cut off.
For the perfect photo spot, this is your best bet. Head here for your pictures and picnic, then you’re a straight shot through the park to visit the tower itself.
Park Champs de Mars, the best picnic and photo spot near the Eiffel Tower
Pro tip: Beware of the people in the park asking if you speak English then to sign a petition, they are pickpockets!
Wander the Le Marais neighborhood
This area was my favorite in the entire city. Head towards Notre Dame, and walk northeast from there.
Admire the beautiful architecture, browse the vintage shops on the Rue de San-Antoine, and drop into Aux Merveilleux for merveilleux and meringues.
Grab some cheese and smoked salmon from one of the shops and wander through the stunning garden of the Hôtel de Sully (it’s not an actual hotel, hotel in French often means a city building).
Next, keep walking to the Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, and enjoy a picnic in the park. This spot is prime for people watching, and be sure to catch the street performers — you’ll see everything from opera singers to a magic show.
Hotel de Sully / Cofrettes at Aux Merveilleux / and Place des Vosges.
Visit the Museums
It goes without saying that a trip to Paris isn’t complete without going to the the Louvre and the Musee d’Orsay, but doing a little homework before your visits will make it much more enjoyable and efficient:
Book tickets online in advance for the Louvre and the Orsay.
Check the wait times prior to your visit on the app Affluences.
Download Rick Steve’s Audio Tour app to your phone the night before – he hits the highlights of each museum and pulls in expert opinions when appropriate. There is so much in each museum that you’ll want to make a plan and know what you’re looking for.
Don’t forget the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, and the Orsay on Mondays.
Tale as old as time at the Musee d’Orsay / View of the Louvre from the Orsay clocktower
A few other museums that are well worth the visit:
L’Orangerie– This little gem is my favorite place in all of Paris. The small museum tucked in the Tuileries Gardens houses Monet’s career-culminating masterpieces, the Water Lilies.
The artist donated the works to the French state following after Armistice Day to celebrate the end of World War I. Extra credit: Visit Monet’s home at Giverny in the morning, then say hello to the Water Lilies in the afternoon.
Leave me here for a few hours, I’ll be just fine…
Musee Rodin – Check out the museum that pays homage to Auguste Rodin, one of the world’s most famous sculptors that you’ve probably never heard of. His works The Thinker and The Gates of Hell influenced many that followed, and the museum grounds are gorgeous.
The Louvre and the Seine River by night.
Take a day trip
Chateau Versailles – For all things King Louis and Marie Antoinette, take the train to Versailles, about 30 minutes outside of Paris.
The former palace to the French kings is the definition of opulence and grandeur, and is well worth the jaunt out of the city.
The Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles
Monet’s Home Gardens at Giverny – Make the pilgrimage to the father of the Impressionist movement’s home and witness the inspiration for so many of his works, including the picturesque Japanese garden.
To get there, take the train from Gare Saint-Lazare to Vernon/Giverny, then rent a bike from one of the vendors directly across from the train station for the easy but enjoyable 30 minute ride to Giverny. There are shuttle buses as well, but where’s the fun in that?
Claude Monet’s home and gardens at Giverny
Pro tip: Be sure to buy your ticket online at least the day before — online same-day purchases are not allowed, and the lines can be quite long. Arrive first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon for better lighting and fewer crowds.
The D-Day Beaches of Normandy – Pay homage to the Allied Forces who died during the World War II D-Day invasions of June 6, 1944 with a visit to Omaha Beach, Utah Beach and the Normandy American Cemetery. Take the train from Paris to Bayeux then hook up with a tour operator who will ensure you hit all the sights.
Where to Eat + Drink
Chez Janou – Chez Janou is a diamond in the rough. Located in the heart of le Marais, it’s one of the few places in Paris where the water is free and the menu isn’t in English. Arrive when they open, as every seat in the house fills up fast.
The scallop risotto at Chez Janou making our French food dreams come true
Semilla – For modern French food and the world’s best goat cheese, head to Semilla. The brainchild of some of Paris’s most renown restauranteurs, it’s open format kitchen, exposed wood beams and marble tables are a welcomed contrast to the traditional French bistro. Semilla is also one of the few restaurants in Paris that is open on Sunday’s.
The mouth-watering lamb with dill, almonds and scalloped potatoes.
Freddy’s – If you can’t get a table at Semilla or are killing time until yours is ready, check out Freddy’s, the wine bar next door, also a popular spot with locals for wine and tapas.
Le Petit Prince – Translating to “the little prince,” this quaint eatery in the Latin Quartier is quintessentially Parisian, complete with a Yorkshire terrier scurrying at our feet during dinner. Don’t miss the Scottish salmon with dill sauce, the duck and scalloped potatoes and culminate your meal with the strawberry tiramisu… You’re in France, you can’t skip dessert!
A delicious dinner at Le Petit Prince
L’Ebauchoir– A lovely French bistro situated on the lively Rue de Citeaux near the Musee d’Orsay. If you have to wait, pop across the street to the wine bar, or better yet visit the oldest wine bar in the city of Paris that’s just around the corner, Le Baron Rouge or “the Red Baron.” The wine is cheap, the selection is extensive and you may get lucky enough to catch an impromptu monologue by a local actor.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte– When there’s only one thing on the menu, you know it has to be good. Located in the Latin Quartier, your meal comes with a green walnut salad, multiple helpings of steak and fries and of course, dessert. Arrive early — the line can wrap around the block, but it moves quickly and you can enjoy the street performers while you wait.
Steak and fries worth the wait at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte
Saint Germaine – For some of the best bars in the city head to Rue Princesse in the Saint Germaine neighborhood, in the city’s 5th arrondissement. Our favorites were:
Tiger – Get there early and try the Oh My Dog!
La Petit Saint Germaine – For cheap drinks, great dance music and bartenders that are having as much fun as you are, check out this small but lively spot.
Eden Park Pub – For a cozy atmosphere and the best happy hour in town, start your evening here.
Little Red Door – In le Marais check out LRD for some of the best cocktails in Paris. Get there early!
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